Color Correction/Grading

Calibrate Your Computer Monitor For Web Video and Photo

For a long time I’ve felt like I was fighting to get the color in my videos to look right. I'd get things looking right on my computer, upload, and then when I viewed from another computer, YUCK! In this episode we cover how to calibrate your computer monitor to get more consistent results. In this case, I use the X-Rite i1 Display Pro colorimeter. This episode is NOT intended for serious color critical decision making nor for professional color grading. Monitoring for pro work like that is far more expensive than most of us hobbyists can afford. But the calibration we cover here is a nice first step for someone on a very tight budget.

http://youtu.be/Q7jrIWVBD98

- For the longest time, I felt like my color results for video and photography have been pretty inconsistent. It was not unusual for me to color correct a video and do my best to get it looking how I wanted it to look but then find, with frustration, that on other computers it looked totally different and in many cases, really, really bad.
- Calibration your monitor can help with this issue.
- First a note, this is NOT a guide for high-end, professional color grading because proper solutions in that league generally cost more than most of us enthusiasts can afford, using 4 - 10,000 dollar reference monitors fed by video I/O cards rather than a standard computer graphics card.
- This episode is for people with regular computer monitors and very small budgets that want to take the first step to ensure that their videos or photos look decent when displayed on other computers on the web. Note that it is not just a matter of identifying monitors that have “really good color” or are “really accurate”. Every room is different and every batch of monitors and computers are different. Even the highest quality monitor should be calibrated in the environment where it will be used.
- Calibration of your monitor does not suddenly make your $150 US monitor from a big-box store look amazing with images and footage the pops off the screen! It doesn’t even ensure that your monitor is able to cover all of the colors or luminance levels of any standards.
- What it does is set your monitor as close to a standard color space, white point (balance), luminance levels and contrast (gamma curve) as your monitor is capable. The goal is to do the color correction and grading on a monitor that is close to the standard and then when displayed on the web and all of the monitors people use out there (which are mostly NOT calibrated), they will at least look reasonably consistent with the look that their monitor imparts to other images and footage produced in color managed workflows—closer to how you intended it to look.
- So, it doesn’t make crappy monitors look amazing, or even make good monitors look amazing, it just makes them display everything as close to the standard as that monitor is capable.
- What standard are we talking about? For computers, we’re talking about sRGB. This applies to both Windows and Macs.
- As background, I have two relatively inexpensive monitors. The really cheap one is a 7 year old HP monitor that is really quite bad in a host of ways that we won’t bother to cover here. I’m in the market to replace it with a reasonably affordable, but more capable monitor. My main monitor is a Dell Ultrasharp U2413. This is a “wide gamut” monitor that cost around $475 USD at the time I bought it. It is much better than my old HP but not a high-end color correction/grading reference monitor. But it is good enough to do non-pro web delivered video production.
- How do I calibrate the two? I use the X-Rite i1 Display Pro colorimeter which comes with X-Rite i1 Profiler software. This is an approximately $250 device that you place on your monitor, connect to your computer via USB and the software runs the monitor through a series of color swatches to calibrate your monitor in terms of contrast, white balance, and color space to get you as close to the sRGB standard as possible. On more modern monitors, it can change all the monitor settings for you. On older, less capable monitors, you may have to manually set the “brightness” settings
- It also tests the quality of your monitor to let you know how closely it is able to reproduce the sRGB color space and white balance and contrast (gamma) and can also test the uniformity of your monitor—whether you have any bright or dim spots from the backlight.
- The process takes about 3 to 5 minutes and it is recommended that you run it every 4 weeks or so. It works with various types of LCD screens (fl or LED backlit) and CRTs and even projectors.
- First thing I noticed after the first calibration is that my monitor looked a lot less bright, almost too dim. I learned that ideally, your room should be dark, with one high CRI light behind the monitor aimed at the wall. This is why the “grading suites” either have no windows or the windows are covered to block all light from coming in and influencing the color of the light in the room. This not only provides a more consistent environment but also reduces eye strain.
- Is it worth the $250 price tag? For me it was because, subjectively, I do not struggle with the final color and contrast of my projects since I’ve been using this—I now get much more consistent results.
- Don’t get too confused by the color grading forums where people tell you that you cannot use your computer’s monitor to color grade. That’s true if you are color grading for broadcast TV or cinema projection and selling your services as a professional colorist, but if you’re just producing enthusiast videos for online, using a colorimeter to calibrate your computer’s monitor is way better than nothing at all.
- I’m still in the process of researching what I will do when it comes time to upgrade to a reference grade monitor and will share more as I learn more. Check out LearnLightAndSound.com for more articles on what I find.

4K Video: Interesting Thoughts from Larry Jordan

While it is several months old now (early 2014 before NAB), Larry Jordan gave an interesting talk at BVE (Broadcast Video Expo?) on how realistic it is to start shooting and distributing our projects in 4K. At first I thought he was essentially saying, "It isn't realistic yet..." But there are advantages and I found his insights useful to the point where I'm now wondering whether the pre-order I have in on the 4K Atomos Shogun recorder is pre-mature. Not because I don't think that 4K isn't going to take off, I think it will. And in fact, it already clearly is, even just since early this year. On a quick roll through BestBuy yesterday, I saw that Sony now has 4K TVs for under $2000 USD. Now to be honest, it will probably be a while before traditional broadcast sends out much 4K programming but I think in this revolution, the online broadcasters have already taken the first step--Netflix, YouTube, and others.

But 4K may not be a higher priority than some other things that I need in my overall video production gear line-up. I have cheap, consumer grade monitors and while one of the is a wide-gamut Dell Ultrasharp, it is not really color critical. At least I'm pretty sure most colorists would consider it un-workable for their projects. Maybe I should invest in a decent HD or higher res color critical monitor that I could use for grading? Maybe start with one of the newer HP Dream Colors?

I have a decent near field monitors for audio but the room in which I edit and master the audio is completely untreated, and un-tested, for that matter. My ears tell me this room has got issues. Maybe I need to invest in a test microphone and bass traps?

And another thing I've had my eyes on for a long time is a quality camera slider or perhaps even a small jib.

In the sound recording realm, I'd really like to get into a Sound Devices field recorder and some quality (super)cardioid and shotgun mics (the NTG-2 is ok, but not amazing).

What do you all thing? Would you cancel the pre-order on the Shogun for now? Which would be highest priority for you?

-CuJu

http://youtu.be/rzhIRR7pH0I

July 2014 Ongoing Projects

I've got a lot in the queue and so I need to focus. Here are some of the topics I plan to cover in upcoming episodes:

  • Comparing RODE smartLav vs smartLav+ into the Zoom H1. The goal here is to finally get to the bottom of what causes all that noise in the original smartLav. Short answer: Its the mic. I just need to record this short episode and move on. Interestingly, in my tests last night, the sound of the two mics is quite different. The original smartLav has more low end, to the point where it almost sounds like a broadcaster mic with  what sounds like proximity effect--rich, almost woolly low end response. The smartLav+ on the other hand, sounds quite a bit more natural without that hype in the lows.
  • New lighting style--experimented this morning with an edgier type of lighting where there's no key light but instead, two kickers from behind, one on each side, and a fill light directly over the camera. It sort of worked. Still need to tweak that one a bit more.
  • Review of my new Photoflex Starlite QL with the large Silverdome NXT softbox. Loving this thing so far. Its sort of old-school in that the lamp is tungsten (love the color rendering!) and there's no way to dim it without changing out bulbs or adding a dimmer (and get funkier colors). Awesome for talking head and interviews and I managed to get it for only $350 US on special. Worth every penny.
  • Episode on color calibrating your computer monitor and using an X-Rite Color Checker Passport to get your colors corrected and figure out how much your lights and camera are messing with the color in your footage. This is an area where I am looking for solutions and don't have a lot of answers yet so it will be a longer journey, most likely.
  • Atomos Ninja 2 with the Panasonic GH4. I've found that I can capture pretty awesome HD footage from the GH4 if I set it in UHD/4K mode, set the HDMI setting to downsample to 1080 HD and record only with the Ninja 2. No moire. Way better HD than the camera records. In essence, this is downsampling to HD on the fly vs. doing it after the fact on my computer.
  • Atomos Shogun--placed my pre-order and looking forward to its arrival. Since I've been recording externally with the Ninja 2 for the last six months, I'm pretty sold on the concept of an external recorder when using DSLRs and DSLMs. Even though the Ninja 2's screen is pretty weak both in terms of color and size, I LOVE that it records to ProRes. I cannot even begin to express how much time and frustration that feature alone has saved me. Premiere and Resolve both seem to have a much easier time playing back ProRes footage, even after it is heavily graded. The secret is that ProRes files are huge, but the CPU and GPU don't have to do much decoding to display it. A lot of people will still scoff at the $700 USD price point of the Ninja and certainly scoff at the $2000 pricepoint of the Shogun but I don't regret that purchase in the least. The Ninja Star may be a good option for a lot of people that don't also need a monitor. If the Shogun works out nicely, it may also replace my separate audio recorder because I'll be able to feed my XLR mics directly into the Shogun. Fingers crossed that works out well.
  • Century Stand--yeah, I know, people don't get too excited about light stands but can I say that I bought my first century stand and probably won't buy another flimsy light stand again? Well, maybe if I need something ultra light, but this C-stand has done a lot reduce my fears of lights tumbling to the concrete or other hard floor. And they adjust so quickly and easily and precisely without flexing all over the place. They hold flags and allow you to precisely position them and allow you to do that so quickly and effortlessly. There is a reason that the big guys use them. Now I see.

There are a couple of other topics rolling around in the back of my head as well. If any of these above are higher priority to you, feel free to add a comment and we'll see about pushing it to the front of the line.

Cinelike D Photo Style on the Panasonic GH4

The GH4 has a photo style called Cinelike D which is supposed to be great for capturing very contrasty scenes by compressing the highlights and shadows, sort of like a log profile on raw shooting video cameras. I was excited to put this to use when I first started shooting with the GH4 but then once I got it into post, skin tones tended to end up looking very strange. It turns out that this had a lot more to do with my lack of color grading skills than any problems with the photo style. In this episode I walk through how I use it for different situations and when I find that it speeds up my workflow to use other photo styles.

The examples are shown in DaVinci Resolve Lite 10. Version 11 comes out very soon and should work the same for this type of work. http://youtu.be/_xxzUwByz3M

DaVinci Resolve Lite: Secondary Corrections Whitening Teeth

One of the amazing things about DaVinci Resolve is that you can do what are called secondary corrections--changes that only affect part of a video clip. This is super helpful when you want to really fine tune a look. Here we run through an example of whitening teeth using the secondary correction selection tools in DaVinci Resolve. http://youtu.be/lIzYBkIMgYc